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"In actuality, there were plenty of black dresses before that date, including many by Chanel herself, and black was already a fashionable colour but there's something about this moment and the way it embodies the modernising spirit of the 1920s." That moment is how the new show begins the largest fashion exhibition the National Museum of Scotland has ever staged - a simple crepe de chine dress made by Chanel in 1926, borrowed from the Kunstgewerbemuseum in Berlin

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At this time, servants ceased to be the help, a somewhat collegial characterization, and became known as domestics. And domestics wearing upper-class castoffs, especially young and pretty ones, led to embarrassing mix-ups

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